A Near Tragedy
Cactus is a fairly rugged spot in and out of the water, it's the surf spot of plenty;
plenty of good surf, plenty of heat, plenty of flies and plenty of big whites, and my last trip in the sixties almost ended
up a disaster.
Cactus is situated near a small town named Penong on the Nullarbor Plain just at
the start of the Great Australian Bight. If you are not up with your Latin, Nullarbor means "no trees" and it can be very
intimidating. It is in fact a desert and can get really warm there, especially during the summer months. Cactus itself was
actually called Point Sinclair and was given its current name by the first guys who drove up there, looking for surf. Well,
when they first saw it, the surf was pretty poor and someone said, "this place is cactus!" meaning no good and boy, how wrong
they were, as Cactus is now regarded as one of the best breaks in Oz!
It was Christmas time, 1967 and summer, the surf was pretty good all week and getting
bigger every day. One morning we woke up to find it closing out right across the bay. Someone mentioned that a few kilometres
back along the coast there was a spot called Point Bell and it should be working perfectly, so we decided to go and have a
look. This meant doing a lot of driving through some pretty rough terrain and most of it private property. We were driving
through one piece of property along a track, which had probably been made by the owner while working at clearing the Mallee
scrub. All of a sudden there was one loud bang closely followed by another and upon inspection we found that we had two blowouts
after driving over a mallee root. Anybody travelling through this sort of country always carries a couple of spare tyres.
We had a couple of spares but had used them earlier in the week, so we were in quite a bit of trouble and it looked like being
a very warm day. Three of the guys decided to walk down to Point Bell to see if anyone was down there. One of them was silly
enough to walk down in just a pair of board shorts and no shoes, it took him eight hours to crawl back, and when he arrived
he was a pretty sick bloke.
I guess if there is any blame to be laid I have to be honest and say my good friend
Johnny Matson would have to wear it, as he should have known better than to drive at the speed he was doing seeing we had
no spare tyres. Two of the guys who walked down to the point came back after a few hours and told us the bad news; no one
was there. By this time it was starting to get pretty warm and we didn't have much water left, only an esky one quarter full
of dirty ice water with a couple of cans of canned fruit. Now, I'm no hero, but I didn't feel like hanging around there waiting
for the heat to decide our future, so I decided to walk back the way we had come, remembering we had passed a building of
some sort a number of kilometres back. John, who must have been feeling that he was to blame for our predicament (nothing
was said about this) decided to come with me.
Well, I grabbed a blanket and wrapped it around myself and John used a large beach
towel, plus the esky with the remaining water, which by this time was almost empty. The heat was really oppressive and getting
hotter all the time. It seemed like we had only walked a few hundred metres or so when we were looking for some shade, but,
as I mentioned before there were no trees, only small Mallee scrub. Now this delightful little walk we were taking was during
the warmest part of the day, and the stops we were making were getting more frequent and the starts were getting harder to
make. A number of times I really had to rip into John to get him moving again, as a person can perish in this sort of country
in just a few hours. If the heat didn't get you, the flies would, and they were like wedge-tailed eagles. The soil around
here is a dark red and very dusty, which, combined with the heat, takes its toll as the soles of the boots I was wearing were
starting to peel, while John was only wearing Japanese joggers (thongs) and he was really starting to look crook. My biggest
worry was that all the country was starting to look the same, I mean we could have been walking in circles and wouldn't know
it as there seemed to be tracks all over the place. Eventually we came to a small rise and away in the distance through the
heat haze I thought I could see the reflection of the sun on what might be a roof.
We staggered on for another two hours. Over every slight hill or bend in the track
we looked for any sign of a building, and there was none, only more tracks going in all directions and more flies. By this
time we were both getting pretty stuffed and all the water was gone. It was then that we turned a corner to see a water tank
sitting on the side of a small hill. We both rushed up there only to find that it was pretty old and pretty empty, and that
did nothing to boost our morale. Anyway to make a short story long, we rounded the next corner to find a house, and that really
did boost our morale. As we walked up to the front door, we could hear this loud buzzing noise only, to discover that if we
thought the flies were bad out in the open, ALL their mates were here under the Veranda in the shade. I knocked on the door
(rather stupid when you think of it) as there seemed to be no one at home, so we decided to go around the back to see if we
could find some sort of a tap or anything to do with water. To our surprise we discovered there was someone at home, a young
woman and her mother were sitting in the back part of the house.
It was no surprise to them to see two people who were in a lot of trouble, and
before we knew it, they were pouring lovely cold water down our throats. After we had just about drank their fridge dry we
told them that we had left another three guys somewhere back down the track. The mother then very quickly got on the two-way
radio to her son, who was, believe it or not, out harvesting a crop of wheat, explaining to him about our situation , asking
him to come home. This young bloke was quite a character himself, there he was out harvesting his crop in this heat and now,
the next minute he was driving his Jeep (which ran on four cylinders and diesel) to help out five guys in strife, in the scrub.
We went with him of course, and as we got closer to where our vehicle was, we came across the car and the other three guys
moving very slowly in our direction. The other guys had not been just sitting around either, they had managed to somehow stuff
the two tyres with grass, enough so that they could get the vehicle mobile. Now this young bloke, sizing up the situation,
jumped out of the Jeep, ripped off the two punctured tyres, patched and pumped them up by hand within what seemed like minutes.
You know, he and his folks would not accept any reward for helping us out, so we decided to leave some cash in his back shed
where he'd find it after we were gone.
A few years later I was travelling through Ceduna, a large town over that way,
we ran into him at a service station. You know, he was pretty upset that we left the cash. The breed of people that live in
this part of the country are pretty tough and almost reflect their environment, but once you get to know them, they are the
friendliest and most eager to help people I've ever met.
The first time I surfed Cactus I took the ring off my finger and had it in my mouth
for the whole time I surfed that first session. The reason for doing this was I thought the glint of gold flashing under the
water might attract a big fish. The fear of the Big White is very common at Cactus and I don't think I've ever heard from
anyone who's surfed there who hasn't had some respect for what lurks beneath those waters. About the only time one forgets
that fear is when one is out there and locked into a Cactus Tube.
It's not just the sharks you've got to worry about at cactus it's mainly the flies
and some of the locals. One in particular "Moose" who happens to be a mate of mine. Believe me, you wouldn't want him for
an enemy. Even Mark Warren in his atlas of Australia surfing gave some friendly advice no to get in his way. Another dangerous
creature to be aware of in this area is the March Fly which lands on any part of your body, completely undetected and then
takes huge hunks out of your flesh. The March Fly is not a LITTLE fly; in fact he's quite big (some people believe he's crossbred
with the Wedge-Tailed Eagle). The thing is he lands on you without you knowing it and starts a feeding frenzy and there is
no buzzing like a normal fly. So you have a choice: you can escape his feeding frenzy by going in the water and taking your
chances with Whitey!
And apart from what you heard or read, Cactus was first discovered and ridden by
a guy by the name of Dennis (Snake) Ferret who was working in the area as a Wool Classer at the time.
And now the famous Mouse Plague...
The area around Cactus is almost a desert, nothing grows over a few feet high and
looking at the place you wouldn't expect it to be over abundant with wildlife, wrong! On one of our trips turn promoted a
lot of vegetation growth and as a result of this growth a few of the local creatures decided to increase their population.
And as we were driving past some of the wheat growing properties we noticed some of the large wheat storage bins and silos
seemed to be moving with a rippling effect. On closer inspection we discovered that the cause of this unusual effect was millions
of mice. At night, while we were sleeping, these little cuties would be crawling everywhere and all over us. There where also
these cute little Geckos that were enjoying their own little plague. Now youre probably thinking "Oh yeah! Is that all! Only
mice and geckos, surely a few little critters like that would be no problem" Wrong again! Other animals feed on mice and geckos,
some of those include snakes, and in this area we have one of the worlds deadliest snakes going around, the King Brown. The
whole bloody area was alive with the damn things and we had to be careful where we walked and sleeping became a bit of a nightmare
(excuse the pun). Id like to point out that anything like civilisation is miles and miles away from here. Theres no Motels,
electricity, phones, fresh water or help if one gets into any serious strife. One morning I went hunting with a mate of mine
Ian"Bongo" Bradley for some rabbits with our Rifles. We climbed to the top of a sand dune and as we looked across a small
valley we could see two of our acquaintances that were doing the same thing. They were walking within a few metres between
each other. Bongo spotted a snake in the middle of them, raised his rifle and fired a shot at it. These two mates of ours
thought that we were shooting at them and to my horror returned fire and for the next two hours we were dodging bullets. I
guess we were lucky that they were bad shots, even so it took our minds off the snake population for a couple of hours.
Cactus was also known as Rosella Point (A brand name for canned food here),
because of all the empty cans left lying around the joint before the guys that frequented the place heard about the word "ecology".

Cactus Desolation
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